30. One of my favorite memories happened when I was eighteen and working in Paraguay. I was to be a guide for a work team from New York, the third group with whom I had worked. I had the routine down pretty well by then. In the morning before the evening they were to arrive, I called Pánfilo, a chófer I had used before, and asked him if he was up for a seven-day trip to Ayolas for 200,000 Guaraní (about $120 US at the time, if memory serves.) He agreed and showed up at the airport. There were thirty-five people in the group. Pánfilo and I loaded their luggage onto his bus while they bought junk from the colorfully dressed "Indians." They were spending the first night in Asuncion, so, after I met the group leader, we drove them to the hotel Paraguay in El Centro. Pánfilo and I unloaded their luggage and got it to the bellhops. I helped the group leader, who was Puerto Rican and spoke a little Spanish, connect with the hotel manager so he could arrange payment. Pánfilo dropped me off at the pension where I was staying and headed home. The next morning Pánfilo and I showed up at the hotel at 6:30 and, as the group straggled downstairs, loaded them back into the bus for the trip to Ayolas.
Now we get to the part that is a favorite memory of mine.
As I settled into the seat behind Pánfilo for the ride to Ayolas, I introduced myself to one of the young ladies from the New York group. "Oh," she said in surprise, "You're American?"
"Yes, I'm from Texas."
"Oh," she replied, "I thought you were a local."
And there you have it.
Hello, friends. How are you today?
Later. Love.





two-week trip with a my church youth group between my junior and senior years of high school, and six month trip alone immediately after high school graduation. During the second trip, I worked as a guide of sorts for groups from the United States. Some of those groups were like the small group I had been in the previous year, the group with which I had performed "clown ministry" (I am reminded of a friend who is fond of asking at random and inappropriate moments the question, "What the fuck is clown ministry?") Working as their guide, I got to be a spectator for the pantomime spectacle. I got to hear the Paraguayan men ask, "What the hell is wrong with you people? Do you think we are heathens? Why do you paint your faces like this? What are you trying to hide?" and so forth. It occurred to me then, "This is not a school play, where people are forced to pretend to enjoy bad theatre. This is the real life of these people. They don't want to see pantomime." It was eye-opening.



5. I have a love/hate relationship with the ocean. I love looking at it from a distance. I am fascinated with the life therein. I can remember, as a child, watching with breathless amazement the work of early oceanographers like Jacques-Yves Cousteau and Steve Zissou. I remember the calm, sage scholarship of Jacques' French-accented narration. He would calmly comment as members of his team jumped into the water and were immediately eaten by sharks and octopuses (octopi?) "Notice how zee flailing of Gerard's arms whips zee enraged tiger sharks into a frenzy. Soon zee blood will attract even more of zeese majestic creatures."










